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...so it opens up a lot of possibilities for combining boards into a project. This photo shows a RasPiO InsPiRing driver board and a Pimoroni inkyphat on a RasPiO FullpHAT.
But even with those two pHATs in use at the same time, you still have 19 other GPIO ports unused. With RasPiO FullpHAT, you can access and use them for your projects.
As with all RasPiO boards, the connections are labelled in a large, easy-to-read font. There are also lots of options for adding extra headers or soldering wires to the board (to suit your project). The GPIO ports are broken out twice in addition to the two pHAT headers. There are extra holes for power and GND as well.
RasPiO FullpHAT is a HAT-sized board that enables you to connect 2 pHATs/HAT and break out available GPIO pins. Two pHATs is slightly (~4mm) wider than a HAT, so when you put two pHATs on, one of them will stick out a bit over the edge.
The stacking header is 2x20 with the body 8.5mm high and the pins 10.25mm high. Remembering that the PCB is 1.6mm thick, this will leave 8.65mm protruding above the board. This is about the same protrusion as a regular Raspberry Pi header.
The underside of the PCB is also labelled for your making convenience...
...it's much easier to solder wires to the right hole when it's labelled clearly!
Should you wish to make your project as 'low-profile' as possible you could solder the Full pHAT directly to the Pi and eliminate the main header altogether (works best with Pi Zero). But make sure you've done any soldering you need to on the underside of the PCB first.
It's not cricital, but it's probably best to solder the stacking header first, paying close attention to which way up the PCB is. Have a good look at the photos. The large "Connect TWO pHATs at once to your Pi" writing should be facing upwards.
Then solder the 2x20 male header (if you're using it) and then attach the nylon standoffs and nuts (if you're using them). It's as simple as that. Enjoy. And tweet us up at @raspio1 with a photo of your project